Italy has always been known for its magnificent, unrivalled landscape. However, in the last few years something rather interesting has caught our attention that has absolutely nothing to do with nature’s beauty. Yes, we are talking about beer shops.
Beer shops do not hold the best of histories. As early as 1830 an act was established for beer shops’ liberalisation and free trade. Not surprisingly this “Beer Act” increased the beer consumption. Almost immediately, people started complaining about the “torrent of drunkenness”. Reports claimed that: “Everybody is drunk. Those who are not singing are sprawling. The sovereign people are in beastly state.” By 1833, beer was associated with not only an increase in drunkenness, but also an increase in crime and poverty. Reaching the conclusion that “much evil has arisen from the management and conduct of houses in which beer and cider is sold by retail,” the Act was revoked.
But now, in the 21st century, everything has changed. Indeed it could not be a better time for what we know as artisanal beer. This revolution, which originated from the United States of America, has caught Italy as well; to the point where Italy is ranked third for the number of open beer shops among European countries in 2014’s Beer Statistics.
We found a large number of beer shops throughout Rome. However, particularly 
one fascinated us: Ninkasi Beer Shop. Opened in 2013 by owner Gianluca Maldera, this charming establishment can be found in the heart of the Parioli neighbourhood.
It only takes a moment to feel the cosy familiarity the space emanates. Ninkasi favours a dark brown wood interior with beers exposed all around, giving everyone who steps inside the sensation of warmth. The selection might change as the owner’s curiosity and the extreme passion towards his shop leads to an everlasting innovation. And while the extensive number of beers might be overwhelming at first, Gianluca is glad to help and offer advice on the beer that best suits you. Since Maldera meticulously chooses the craft beers on hand, you cannot find a better source.
My personal favourite is To Øl – This Is Advertising, 11,30%, a quadruple by Denmark. I also suggest you try Tokyo*, 16,5%, produced by a Scottish brewery, BrewDog. If you feel a little more creative, you will love the new design of the Indie Ale; the label was recently designed by NemO’s, an Italian street artist, 5,5%, by Birrificio Indipendente Elav.
My personal favourite is To Øl – This Is Advertising, 11,30%, a quadruple by Denmark. Also, I suggest you try Tokyo*, 16,5%, produced by a Scottish brewery, BrewDog; and if you feel a little more creative you will love the new design of the Indie Ale, as the label has been recently designed by NemO’s, an Italian street artist, 5,5%, by Birrificio Indipendente Elav.
Gianluca says, “Many a night I have spent drinking different types of beers at the shop; and no night is the same as the other. There are the tranquil nights where you can spend some time in the shop drinking peacefully your fresh beer, or nights with people playing table games, especially Risico. Or you can find yourself in the middle of a jam session, where people sing, dance, play the guitar, sometimes even the violin, just for the fun of it.
“I remember how my friends and I used to spend days at the beer shop as a hangout during my years in high school,” Gianluca recalls. “Later during college, I could not get out of my mind that there were no such places near my house. So wanting to build a place that I loved most, I opened Ninkasi Beer Shop. I wanted to create a family. Profit was never part of the plan.”
After two years of business, Ninkasi Beer Shop has obtained its goal. Everyone is welcome; for here nothing is better than an extended family.
