“The philosophy of the business is to give you a full culinary experience of what Indian cuisine is… I’m proud to say we’re very authentic.”
Rome spoils us with its multitude of delicious foods to devour. Tourists delight in trying cacio e pepe or carciofi alla romana for the first time. Those of us who stay a little longer get to sample those special seasonal foods that pop up just once a year, such as frappe at Easter or a sweet slice of panforte at Christmas.
I’m more than willing to sample any Roman treat that passes my way, but occasionally I crave something different; aromatic spices with a big kick of flavor and just enough fieriness to make your tongue tingle. With that in mind I headed to Il Guru, a family-run Indian restaurant in the youthful neighborhood of Monti.
Manager since 2011, second-generation immigrant, and son of the restaurant’s founder, Mathew Myladoor tells me how important authenticity is to Il Guru. “The philosophy of the business is to give you a full culinary experience of what Indian cuisine is. We’ve never seen it as something just to fill your stomach. The menu is very well balanced and there is no compromising on a culinary level, with the meat, the spices, whatever. I’m proud to say we’re very authentic.”
He might only be 27 years old but it’s fair to say Myladoor knows the business inside out, having worked here since he was 16. “I’ve had my share of experience inside the restaurant, starting from the very bottom and working my way up. I’ve seen everything. I started as the dishwasher, then upgraded to cutting vegetables and a prep cook. After that, I was a cashier, then I waited tables for about 2 years. It’s a small business with only 80 covers, but my dad wanted me to get the hang of everything.”
Only once his father’s knowledge and expertise had been passed on was Myladoor ready to progress to the next challenge the restaurant would throw at him.
“I was his employee for a long time, then I finally became his right wing, now the tables have turned and he’s my right wing. He’s still active and very hands-on, partly because he won’t let go, partly because it’s very nice to have him around. It wasn’t always like that, as anyone who has worked with a parent knows!”
The restaurant opened in 1991, but the story of this family began a few years earlier in 1985 when Myladoor’s parents, Thomas and Nancy, chanced across each other in Rome, performing a ‘meet cute’ just like in the movies.
“My Mom is with her friends, my Dad with his friends, they’re walking by in St. Peter’s Square, and Dad hears a friend of Mom’s calling her by her name, Nancy. He turns around and says, ‘Hey Nancy!’’’ Myladoor recounts.
Both Thomas and Nancy had emigrated from India in the 70s, so they surely had a lot in common. Shortly after their chance encounter, the couple got married and Thomas began dreaming up plans for Il Guru. Nancy continued her work in Ayurvedic medicine, a traditional and ancient Indian healthcare method. These days you will occasionally find her at the restaurant, hosting courses on the use and properties of spices and the role they play in keeping us healthy.
In its 25-year history, Il Guru has always been attentive to the quality of ingredients, Matthew Myladoor explains to me. The team shops every day for fresh produce and look to make premium selections; all the vegetables and legumes are organic for example. They also import spices directly from India (you can visit the family’s complementary spice shop, Le Spezie del Guru, near Piazza Vittorio).
With these ingredients, the restaurant serves dishes from various regions of India, but mainly specialties from Kerala and the south. On my visit, I chose manzo masala: beef with a mix of 12 spices, including coriander, cinnamon, cardamom, and fresh curry leaves. The meat was tender, with a thick, aromatic sauce and punchy enough to leave a slight spiciness on the lips afterwards. I also tasted the pollo tikka; chicken cooked in a tandoori oven, and dhal, made with yellow lentils, both of which I’d happily eat again.
Coming from the UK, where we’re really spoilt for top quality ethnic restaurants, I’m somewhat of an enthusiast of Indian food. So, I was happy to discover an apple pakora amongst the starter plate; something I’d not seen before. A thin slice of apple, dipped in batter with black cumin seeds, the dish was crisp, light, and more savory than you might expect. I’d recommend adding one to your order.
Overall, the food was good quality, tasty, and reasonably priced. Most importantly, it satisfied my craving for something spicy, until the next time, at least.
