The Fontana della Barcaccia sits in the center of one of the most famous (and indeed touristy) squares in Rome, Piazza di Spagna. Nestled between the historic Babington’s Tea Room, a 19^th Century meeting place with a penchant for English high tea and the Keats-Shelley Memorial House, the fountain occupies a picturesque spot of prime real estate. It opens out on the piazza and leads the eye up the steep slope of the Spanish Steps, which are adorned with flowers in spring and summer. On the peak of the 135-step scalinata rests the Trinità dei Monti, a late Renaissance church, and its two symmetrical bell towers.

With so much beauty crammed into this relatively small space, you might be surprised to learn that the name of the landmark in the heart of this scenic spot translates to Fountain of the Ugly Boat. The half-sunken vessel overflows with water and was created as a reminder of the 1598 flooding, the worst in Rome’s history, when much of the historical center was underwater. Once the flooding abated, a small boat was left behind in Piazza di Spagna.

The fountain marks a spot on the map of Rome with an interesting history, but one that isn’t always evident at first glance. Today, tourists mob the piazza, vying for prime selfie-taking position along the fountain’s railings, sometimes making it difficult to enjoy or even acknowledge landmark itself.

However, I recently discovered a charming place from which to view the fountain and its surroundings: the restaurant Cucina & Vista that overlooks the square. Opened in 2013, this modern restaurant is a bright and airy space, which offers guests a serene and laid-back atmosphere, perfect for escaping the throngs of tourists in the piazza outside.

Precise and considered, but without any stuffiness, the clean white décor of the restaurant’s six rooms lend themselves perfectly to a long lunch, savored over with a glass of wine should it take your fancy. On my visit I, of course, made myself comfortable at a window table so I could partake in some people watching between courses.

As for the food, the menu is comprised of modern Italian cuisine but always with one eye towards the international customer base being served. Although Spaghetti alla carbonara and Tagliatelle alla bolognese are menu features, the bulk of what’s on offer has a more inventive approach.

Zucchini flowers are paired with salted, cured fish roe and fresh ear-shaped orecchiette pasta for example. Octopus ragù is enhanced with cockles and toasted almonds. The gnocchi dish that I ordered was upgraded from the usual tomato and basil version with a swirl of “crema di mozzarella di bufala”.

The menu tells us how executive chef, Alessandro Marra wants us to “discover and appreciate” the flavors Italy has to offer and so the best raw ingredients are carefully selected in order to create pure and precise dishes. Smoked salt crystals are offered alongside seared beef filet for instance, but the attention to detail here goes beyond just the sourcing of ingredients.

From the presentation of all the plates I saw come out of Chef Marra’s kitchen, to the considered décor and furnishings at Cucina & Vista, the entire experience has been put together to produce an elegant dining experience without unnecessary pomp or formality.

If, like me, you’re a firm believer that no meal is complete unless followed by a morsel of something sweet, reading the dessert menu will be a treat. Choose from strawberry clafoutis served in honey waffles or a pistachio frangipane tartlet with a puree of forest fruits, amongst other sweet offerings.

On this occasion however, I decided to take advantage of the particular brand of gelato served in the café downstairs. A counterpart to the Cucina & Vista restaurant on the second floor is the café/bar/gelateria area on the ground level, known as La Barcaccia, inspired by the ugly boat outside.

At the entrance to this matching space, you’ll generally see a fast moving flow of customers who come solely to take away a cone of artisanal Don Nino gelato. Made with traditional ingredients but without additives, the Don Nino brand is headed by Francesco Mastroianni, five times Italian champion ice cream maker.

I carefully chose two flavors; a sweet and summery Amarena cherry and classic nutella swirled into a straightforward cream base. This would give me the energy I needed to head back into the piazza and fight for a position next to the fountain.

Cucina & Vista

Piazza di Spagna, 65

tel. 06 679 7497

info@cucinaevista.com
www.cucinaevista.com