As the season begins to turn from stifling summer to the cooler and windier autumn months, the temperatures drop; and ideas of dining out in sun-baked piazzas change towards cozy, intimate restaurants tucked away down quiet cobbled streets. However, the capricious Roman weather can mean that you have no idea what the weather will do and so you want to keep your options open. This is why I have a list of places which cater to all conditions, whilst maintaining high standards of excellent cooking, fresh ingredients, and an appealing environment; with spaces to sit both inside and out.
Osteria Romana di Simmi is firmly at the top of that list. It ticks many boxes when looking for a crowd-pleasing restaurant: its location (close to Campo de’ Fiori and just over the river from Trastevere); its choice of spaces; (a fascinating interior with the most eclectic range of pictures, or a leafy outside area on a quiet street); and its wide-ranging menu: fish and meat options for antipasti (starters), primi (pasta or risotto), and secondi dishes (meat or fish with a choice of vegetables).
As you can imagine, even choosing what to eat took a good while, but finally we decided on sauté di cozze (a plate overflowing with mussels and clams in a salty, garlicky, oily sauce) to begin. We followed with paccheri alla siciliana (pasta with sea bass and aubergine), whilst my friend had the classic spaghetti alle vongole (with clams). Then we shared baccala’ con patate (salt baked cod with potatoes, tomatoes, raisins, and olives), accompanied by broccoli ripassati (boiled Romanesco broccoli, which is then fried in oil, garlic, and chili), and oven roasted potatoes. We were also tempted by their degustazione (tasting) menu of either Roman classics or fish, which allows you to sample a range of their most popular dishes. The reasonable price includes dessert, wine, coffee, and water.
Whilst waiting for our antipasto to arrive, I asked our waiter about the history of Osteria Romana di Simmi. Apparently, the family has been in the restaurant business since 1922, when they owned La Cisterna in the heart of Trastevere. It was frequented by artists, including the poet Trilussa. The family collected paintings to adorn the walls of not only La Cisterna, but also this Osteria, which Elisabetta (a grand-daughter of Cesaretto, who ran La Cisterna) opened twenty years ago. This artistic, bohemian atmosphere has been effortlessly transferred across the river into the area between the river and Campo de’ Fiori, or Piazza Farnese – an area which escapes many tourists (unless they get lost) and so it has a distinctly local feel.
By the time we had heard this slice of Roman history, we were already making our way through the mussels and clams, which were fresh and simply prepared. We both agreed that our pasta dishes were delicious, although my friend and I agreed that mine was the winner – the sea bass was infused with fennel seeds which added a unique twist. The salted cod was good – but the vegetable side dishes were particularly noteworthy. There was a good wine list with local and national wines on offer, but their own label house wine accompanied the food perfectly.
Unsurprisingly, we were feeling pretty full by this point and by the time we finished, we had seen most of the other tables leave. We ended the meal with a coffee and a wander around inside in order to look at the art on the walls – as well as the chance to hear about the famous people who have dined at Osteria Romana di Simmi. The list ranges from former US Presidents (Bill Clinton) to the King of Spain, and even Jane Fonda!
Please note – this is not somewhere for a quick bite. The menu warrants choosing a plate from each course (possibly forgoing antipasto or dessert, depending on your taste), but Osteria Romana di Simmi is known for its fish, and in my opinion rightly so. Tuck in!
Open Monday – Saturday 12:00-15:00 and 19:00-23:00. Closed on Sundays.
Osteria Romana di Simmi
Via San Paolo alla Regola, 29/31
tel: 06 6861917
