Gaetano describes his food as, “Contemporary, not too modern or too classical.”
I step out of the metro station into Piazza Euclide, named either for the Greek philosopher or, more famously, the father of geometry. Thinking about this leads me to wonder if there were any right angles at all in the train that carried me the short ride from Piazza Del Popolo. I decide it doesn’t matter because I love the rickety, 1960s-streetcar vibe of the FC3.
Rounding the corner, I enter the Grand Hotel Ritz and take the elevator to the top. Gaetano Costa Le Roof has a fantastic view of the Parioli neighborhood and the beautifully imposing Basilica of the Sacred Immaculate Heart of Mary. Gaetano greets me with a friendly smile that seems to shine right out of his eyes. Dressed in a sharp black suit, his style is what I w
ould expect from the owner of a restaurant of this caliber. Then I notice a faint ‘GC’ tattooed in script font on his neck, just above his collar line. Later, when I get the chance to ask him about it, he laughs and says, “Younger stupidaggine. I did it many years ago, during a time when I felt that the only person I could count on was myself.” This is one of many clues in a theme. Gaetano strikes me as someone who practices what one might call ‘positive perfectionism’, an attitude defined by a high work ethic, self-sufficiency, singular vision, and a tenacious commitment to excellence.
Before he owned restaurants, Gaetano worked in them for many years. He tells me about the moment when he felt compelled to set out on his own. “I realized that I wanted to receive the guests personally, to have a more direct relationship with them.” His first restaurant venture involved friends and investors. He tells me this was a mistake. “If you start a business with friends, you stand a chance at losing the business or losing friends.” I am reminded of the famous falling out stories of Apple’s Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak, or Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg and Eduardo Saverin.
These days Gaetano flies solo managing Le Roof, which is the third incarnation of his restaurant. He tells me that the demands of the job prevent him from being in the kitchen as much as during his younger days. Now he dedicates his creative energy to the bigger picture and to finding good people who can help him manifest his vision.
Speaking of vision, I was glad to have the opportunity to try some items from Gaetano’s menu. “Everything is made in house, including the bread,” he tells me. A serving of Smoked Salmon Tar Tar is placed in front of me. “We take fresh salmon, we salt it, and then smoke it with brown sugar.” I am impressed. The dish is simple and the flavors are rich but not overpowering. Similarly with the caramelized scallops, which I try next: Gaetano has discovered how to express more of the scallop’s delicate flavor without stumbling into the undesirable ‘fishy’ zone.
My first bite makes me realize that all the scallop dishes I’ve ever had in my life were terribly overcooked. Like when an American finally tries pasta prepared in Italy, you never really know what you’re missing until you experience it done right. The last dish that Gaetano presents me is one of his specialties, Pollo e Scampi (chicken and shrimp scampi). “This is what everyone wants,” he tells me, and I soon understand why. A cut of chicken is stuffed with shrimp and then roasted, allowing the flavors to mingle. This ambrosial combination is then placed on a bed of spinach and drizzled with the mixed reductions of the shrimp and chicken. The textures and flavors are in perfect balance.
Gaetano describes his food as, “Contemporary, not too modern or too classical.” He believes food culture in Italy is at the end of modernization. “People want the pure food, something a little more classic. People aren’t interested in sensationalized food as much anymore.”
I ask Gaetano what the hardest part of his work is. He says, “To make every dish a goal.” I take a moment to process what he means by this but it becomes clear when he smiles and pumps his fist, saying, “Goal, goal, goal!” I get an image of Gaetano standing in the kitchen, cheering on the success of each dish that goes out the door. He continues, “Maintaining a high level of excellence is hard work. It is possible to attain, but only a few succeed at making it sustainable. You have to learn to live with the constant stress of trying to guarantee high quality.” Gaetano tells me there was a French chef who took his own life when it was announced that his restaurant might lose its Michelin star rating. I am shocked. This is the dark side of perfectionism, a rude awakening to what can happen if a person’s priorities fall out of balance. I ask Gaetano what he does to deal with this intense stress. Without hesitation, he smiles and says, “Luckily I have three dogs, two children, and a fantastic wife. Family life helps me to remove all the stress.” I ask him what his typical morning looks like. He tells me it’s all about family. “I kiss my baby, we all have breakfast together, then I take the kids to school.” When I ask him what book he’s reading, he smiles and says, “Now is the time to watch cartoons.” We both laugh.
It seems to me that Gaetano has found a balance that allows him to live his dream in a sustainable way. He has learned how to weather the challenges, and his customers reap the benefits. Gaetano’s positive perfectionism is apparent in 
everything: from the design of the restaurant, to its relaxed ambiance, to the music and, most importantly, the food. Next time you’re in Piazza Del Popolo, take a 5-minute ride on the vintage FC3 to the see what the Parioli neighborhood has to offer. Have a drink on the Le Roof’s balcony and then dive into Gaetano’s menu. It will be a memorable experience.
